Reviews

Lovely aromas, Chamomile, ripe lemon, McIntosh apples.

For the challenging vintage this has an excellent tannin structure and good concentration. The strawberry and redcurrant aromas are restrained, but there are also delicate notes of spice and savory to fill out the picture. Good length with moderate acidity for 2021. Drink or hold.

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles 1er Cru has an attractive nose with white pepper and subtle Provençal herbs aromas elevating this above the Village. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, well balanced with a slight citric note towards the finish. This has a bit of swagger, and it should drink well once in bottle for the next decade.

The 2021 Vougeot Les Cras 1er Cru has a well-defined nose. Red berry fruit and distant sea spray scents gently gain intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly gritty tannins, compact and firmer in grip than Vougeraie's other cuvées with a pleasing saline finish. Enjoy this over 12-15 years.

The 2021 Musigny Grand Cru contains 100% whole bunches like the BonnesMares this year, but they are better assimilated. Red berry fruit, undergrowth and light tobacco scents gently unfold. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins, rather spicy, building in the mouth with white pepper touches towards the finish. It's a lovely wine but not a top-drawer Musigny.

The 2021 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru comes from 114-yearold vines and is one of the few to contain stems this year, just 10%. It has an open-knit bouquet with red fruit, bay leaf and Earl Grey, nicely defined but certainly missing some power. The palate is clean and fresh with crunchy red fruit, slightly ferrous with a bit of dryness towards the finish. But there is a sense of complexity here, and I find this Charmes-Chambertin has plenty of character and sapidity.

The 2021 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from three plots. It takes time to unfurl on the nose, eventually offering citrus fruit, popcorn and hints of Mirabelle. The palate is balanced with an attractive, slightly waxy texture. It shows fine depth with the mineralité eventually surfacing with aeration. Afford this three or four years in bottle.